Showing posts with label Santiago de Compostela. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Santiago de Compostela. Show all posts

Saturday, 1 June 2019

Camino Portugues Day 11+

With our walk concluded we actually didn't have tons to do in Santiago.  We made a celebratory dinner on the night we arrived, accompanying it with several celebratory bottles of wine.

This, combined with my somewhat sore feet's need for a day off meant that aside from a couple of short shopping outings, we didn't really leave the hostel on Tuesday.

The following morning we were pretty much back in tip top shape.  My feet hurt only when I stepped on my jandal strap in just the wrong way, and Sarah was feeling so good that she once commented that she kind of missed walking!  We went for a stroll around old Santiago, and took the time to visit the inside of the cathedral that was officially the destination of or pilgrimage. It was under heavy renovation, so the daily pilgrims’ mass was being held elsewhere, and a lot of the interior was covered in scaffolding.  But the building actually still looked very pretty to my eyes. And the silver statue of Saint James that sits above his tomb was still accessible for pilgrims to hug (yes, that's a thing you're meant to do). And the tomb itself, which sits beneath the statue, was still open for visitors. It's surprisingly small and (compared to the huge gilded main altar above it) simple.  Whether you believe these are actually the remains of the apostle or not, it's still a pretty special place due to the centuries of devotion by those who did/do believe so.



Outside of the cathedral and nearby pilgrimage related sites, Santiago actually isn't much more than an averagely pretty medieval Spanish town, with a much higher concentration of lodgings and souvenir shops.  Between this and the fact that we had only two days before we needed to be in Oporto, we decided to hit the road and explore a little more of Galicia and northern Portugal with our remaining time.

So before fully putting our Camino to rest, a few final thoughts:

The prettiest bits were probably the ones in Portugal.  The Spanish sections were nice, and visited some lovely towns, but it felt that the pathway in Spain made a very concerted effort to take you to nice places, while in Portugal the path just went along the most convenient route, which was lovely because everywhere was lovely.

While the scenery and history were great, the best thing about the Camino was the sense of community.  The locals whose homes you were passing by, the hosts at the Albergues and probably most of all, fellow pilgrims always seemed happy to greet you and share a smile, a Buen Camino/Bom Caminho.  Even after arriving in Santiago it was great to walk around and see familiar faces from our walk and the glowing faces of strangers who were obviously just finishing theirs.

The walking really isn't that tough.  As you're regularly passing through towns, you just need to carry a light sleeping bag, changes of clothes and food and water for the trail.  You could probably keep your pack under 5kg if you wanted. Likewise, no special equipment is really required. Just a pair of comfortable shoes and a raincoat (though an awful lot of peregrinos walk with heavy hiking boots, trekking poles and even in a few cases, ridiculously unnecessary gaiters).

April seems a lovely time to walk.  The weather can be a bit wet, but its not cold and wet, and you'll have little or no trouble getting spots at the municipal Albergues (which I gather may be an issue in July or August).

So there we have it.  Camino complete. We will shortly be returning to our regularly scheduled an formatted blog.


Wednesday, 29 May 2019

Camino Portugues Day 11 (The finish!)

Camino Portugues Day 11
Herbon to Santiago de Compostela
Starting km: 229.7
Finishing km: 256.2
Distance walked: 26.5

We hadn't planned for this to be our final day on the Camino.  Even when we left the monastery in the morning, we were planning to just walk 12 or 13km to the final municipal Albergue in Teo, then stop there leaving us with an easy cruise on in to Santiago on day 12.

But it rained most of the morning and, despite this and a few small muddy bits, the walking was actually quite nice.  When we arrived at the Teo Albergue, it was still over two hours until it would open. And it was only about 2.5 hours walk to the place we were considering staying.  So that was that. On we went through surprisingly few suburbs and yet more pleasant forest.

And just as we were arriving in Santiago proper the rain stopped.  On our way into town we saw quite a few other pilgrims, but also lots of Santiagans (doubtless familiar with the passing parade) going about regular life.

With less than 2km left we took a small diversion fr the route to pop into our hostel.  We dropped off our packs and took long hot showers before returning to the road to properly conclude our Camino.

Most of Santiago appeared pretty unremarkable, but as you approach the cathedral the old city begins, and all of the buildings turn into restaurants and shops selling Camino related souvenirs.  We were only about 400m away when we saw the towers of the cathedral for the first time. Minutes later we were in the square in front of it. The sun had come out to welcome us and dozens of other pilgrims, most still with their backpacks, walking clothes and boots still on (we had some of our walking clothes on, but Sarah had changed her shoes and we were both sans packs).  We joined the other pilgrims sitting in the square, basking in the glow of the sun and of having reached the ebd of our roads. Several of our friends from the trail were there, and we passed several more when we finally got up and made our way a few hundred metres further to the pilgrims’ reception office.

There we joined a short queue and received the final stamps in our credencials, closing out our journey.  I got my Compostela (certificate indicating completion of the pilgrimage) and eventually (after some confusion caused by her saying she didn't want the route-and-distance-specific certificate, Sarah got hers as well.

Not entirely surprisingly, they've already suffered a bit, as we went grocery shopping on our way home, but really it's the thoughts and memories that count anyway.

So here we are.  Warm and dry in our hostel sipping celebratory cava and enjoying the end of our Camino.  I'll probably write one final entry tomorrow with a few final Camino memories and reflections, but for now, we're finished!

Wine of the day:
As mentioned before (and implied by the photo below) Lots!