Camino Portugues Day 2

Camino Portugues Day 2

Vila Cha to Rates

Starting km: 26.3

Finishing km: 48.4

Distance walked: 22.1

This was supposed to be mostly a “connector” day, linking up the coastal Camino that we started on to the central Camino that we'd take the rest of the way to Santiago.

It wasn't well signed/waymarked.  And there were several parts where we were walking on narrow roads with stone walls on either side and lots of traffic.  This made Sarah very unhappy and uncomfortable.

But the walk itself was also frequently spectacular!

Up the coast to Vila do Condé where we stopped at a bakery and got a huge, beautiful, delicious Easter pastry for breakfast.  Almonds, Brazil nuts, powdered sugar and all sorts of dried fruit on top. It cost €3, but still felt like great value!

At Vila do Condé we turned off the coastal route, walking up and past a beautiful old nunnery and church high above the river.  And started following an old Roman aqueduct nthat would keep us company for most of the rest of the day. It just went on and on and on!

It was Saturday, so we made a small detour to a supermarket to try and shop for our evening in a small village and for the next day when shops might be closed, but it was shut for remodelling.  Bad luck!

Arrived in Rates before 14:00 opening of the Albergue.  So went to the cafe across the street. Ordered two specials of a glass of beer and a food item whose description we didn't really follow.  Turned out to be pulled pork sandwiches, which were very yummy and great for me (since I got to eat both of them) but not so much for Sarah.

The Albergue was the oldest on the Camino Portugues, and even had a little museum attached.  Stephanie, our companion showed up later. Two older American ladies had a but of drama when they showed up looking for their bags which they'd had shipped to the Albergue only to be told that the Albergue doesn't accept shipped bags (I can see how there ought to be an exception for medical reasons and/or elderly Peregrinos, but there are also no reservations accepted at public albergues, nor anyone on staff before opening, which I also agree with and which would make it difficult to manage this sort of exception).

The Albergue was also celebrating the twentieth anniversary of its current operating trust.  While we cooked dinner (thankfully there was a little shop in town!) they held a board meeting.  And an older Dutchman named Frank provided blister treatment to several young German women.

Once the board meeting was done we were all invited to join the Albergue staff for cake and bubbles to celebrate the anniversary!

It was a very fun night and a great introduction to the more mainstream Camino Portugues Central.